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The Shirt Collar Guide

In a time and age we live in there is a no particular style that we can say is the norm. Each one has the liberty to dress how they wish.


Until recently each era had its own definite style, however with social media, online shopping and availability of bespoke tailoring all of us are influenced and have access to fashion from bygone eras too.

Shirts collars also have a wide gamut of options. I would like to list a few different styles. Before I start a few things to know about a shirt collar. Collar stiffness ,height ,size and spread influence how the collar looks on you.


Soft collars are recommended for casual shirts and stiffer collars for formal wear. Higher collar tend to suit people with long necks or if you want to look trendy or for evening wear shirts to be worn with a jacket and no tie.

If you have a round face or larger head you can choose a bigger size collar to offset it and a smaller size collar if you have a small face or narrow face.


Spread of collar is the distance between the points of the collar. Here again the shape and size of face is important to keep in mind . A spread collar suits a narrow face and point collars balance a round face well.


Point Collar: The distance between the edges of the collar are between 1.5” to 3” we refer to it as point collar. Recommended to make them not very stiff and to be worn with skinny or soft ties .


Spread Collar: When distance between the edges is around 4” or greater. Can be done in moderate stiffness or stiff with removable collar stays. Perfect for business shirts ,can be worn with or without ties . Work well with Windsor and half Windsor knotted ties.


Full Cutaway collar : When the spread is greater than 6” and can go up to being horizontal . Ideally worn without ties and can be made with two buttons and higher stand to give a bold look.

Button Down collar: Soft with a button on the edge with a narrow point . Recommended for casual wear mostly without a tie. Can be worn under a blazer .


Bind Collar: Are just a bind usually worn under a closed coat or for casual shirts without any stiffness. Recommended for linen shirts .



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